Because Eloflex thread is made from HEAVIER fibers (I guess, they use elastane) so it takes only 27km to make 1 kg of the thread. 225tc A cone can support high speed sewing and is equally used for industrial sewing machines. With the note that only embroidery thread is labeled in denier. For industrial sewing threads it is important to understand the following terms: Industrial thread sizes are usually expressed by Tex size or Ticket number. Heavier threads make your stitching more visible. However I personally have real doubts this is what the number means and I presented it to show that even when the manufacturer does put a label, you need to be careful! The following table is imported directly from the Wikipedia article I cited above. The weight followed by the number of strands is in fact the. 3 Types of Upholstery Tack Strips & How to Use Them. Learn how your comment data is processed. Weight does definitely NOT always mean thread thickness! Subscribe to my weekly newsletters with sewing tips and tutorials, free sewing patterns, printable PDFs, and other useful content and youll find the eBook in your inbox. Selecting the right thread saves time, money, and results in a better product. This thread says No 50. The higher the tex, the thicker the thread. I just came across this when searching for help. Were going to decode thread sizes and show you what each one means and how they compare with one another. (LogOut/ Ill email you directly with information on how to exchange your thread. The tension on your sewing machine will need adjusting when you switch thread weights. Since 2005 we have served retail and commercial customers with top quality thread at great prices. We can be confused by all these different numbers but in reality, its not so difficult to choose a correct thread size for your project. Do heavier threads require more tension? I was completely confused by all that information. Spool: holds a small amount of thread, around 250 yards or less usually. Let us know if you need help finding the right size sewing thread for your application! This measurement is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of thread (9km). The Tex number is the weight in grams of 1000m (1km) of thread. Tex is the weight (in grams) of 1,000 meters of thread. After all, the material makes up at least 90% of the content and cost of the item that is being sewn. Here are examples of things that should be sewn with polyester: Polyester thread does not provide the ultimate sunlight (UV) resistance. Denier also measures thread at a fixed length. I am talking here about ranges in meters and yards. No. Some home sewing machines cannot tension the heavy, V-92 thread, but most can sew with the V-69 thread. Threads are not always marked with their size in Wt., Tex. Thanks. . = 1 Tex. Appearances can be deceptive! High Strength Sewing Thread for Flat Web and Web Slings, Ascend Performance Materials, Guest Contributor. It was very important then to get the exact thread size for darning because otherwise, the repair would have been very visible. These are not the only units though. Test it out. Friday I had gone to the store where I had bought it and was told my the owner that I would cause problems to my machine. Usually. The subject of sewing thread sizes is a vast one but the one you need to understand if you want to master sewing. I am talking here about ranges in meters and yards. In this way, a 3-ply product of 1300 Denier becomes 3900 Denier. Both mean the same thing, said differently. However its in use, especially in Canada and Europe, and its not unusual to see threads marked in tex units even in the USA. At one time, Id found a way to cross-reference thread types (say maybe 33wt) to approximate thread diameter so I could find my scale size. Weight of a thread is the length (in kilometers) of a length of thread that weighs 1 kilogram. Because we have reached this point, there are more units that can safely be ignored and I will mention them here just for reference; they are used almost exclusively in industrial sewing. Is Denier thread size really still used at all for sewing? is wound on a support with a wider base to allow it to sit better on support. I am using this fabric http://www.sailrite.com/Sunbrella-Sling-5928-0017-Augustine-Espresso-54 and it had said to use the V-92 thread since I am replacing worn out seats, will the V-69 hold up on this fabric for a deck chair? I once again find myself spending a significant amount of time both reading and commenting. Please note that the Tkt (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric M thread sizes used in some countries. This means 2 strands twisted together, each strand, This label 27 wt denotes a thread having the, Similar to the one above, this is a thread of, This shows the thread is a polyester thread of, Units used for thread size classification, The most common units used for classifying thread sizes are, . Weight for thick, heavy threads is a lower number (8, 10, etc). They did have the solution for the large cone of thread, but the thread size was going to be a problem for my machine, so now I am looking for someone who does upholstery and has a commercial type sewing machine. Commercial Sizes (V): Commercial sizes are used for heavy-duty threads for sewing heavy upholstery, canvas or webbing. Im in need of a suitable needle and thread for sewing a 3300 swl webbing sling, what would you recommend? I have plenty of brand name threads that dont have markings for the thread size. We could categorize them as: Now you know what all these numbers on threads mean and hopefully, you are not going to be so confused anymore by all the different numbering systems for the sewing thread size. Tex 70 and higher (heavy duty, upholstery). Less stretchy such as Kevlar, waxed thread, and cord and string are usually better choices. A lower weight number (i.e. hello, i am in very big confusion ,please tell about thread size (denier) with their application in different sector. 120. Most orders received by 3 PM Eastern Time ship on the same business day. This is why almost all of our threads are bonded. Because of the diversity of materials and construction methods, its not easy to categorize the threads. The finer the thread (thinner, lighter), the lower the tex number. For example, in the image below you can see the same size spools but the spool to the left (with brown thread) has 110 yards of thread, and the spool to the right has 274 yards, and this tells us that the green thread is much thinner. If you are using polyester thread to hang, reinforce or bind, you should consider its elongation. Why? Also, if you want to sew nice seams without seam puckering you should use the same size thread in the bobbin or thinner because if you use thicker thread in the bobbin you can get puckers in your seams. The thread size measures the threads thickness. So if you have a collection of threads that dont indicate what sizes they are. Not used for industrial machines, the small diameter makes it unsuitable for high speed sewing but widely used in home sewing machines. Commercial sizes are used for heavy-duty threads for sewing heavy upholstery, canvas or webbing. number is the weight in grams of 1000m (1km) of thread. I think you have read many times this recommendation: for lightweight fabric use a, Also, if you want to sew nice seams without seam puckering you should use the, We all know that the thread tension on a sewing machine has to be set depending on the thread size. For a thread marked in weight, it would be a weight 40. When you go to compare the size of two different threads, youll want to make sure youre comparing apples to apples. It is the weight (in grams) of 9,000 meters (or 9 km) of thread. Heavier threads make your stitching more visible. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. = 1 Tex. However, a #20 and V-92 will also work, it is just lighter. Great information! The tapered top prevents accidental unwinding which is a problem with a cop. Find the perfect size thread for your next project at www.sailrite.com. If its written heavy duty it should mean that the thread is thicker. In the image below you can see a multitude of symbols that define the thread size. The thread thickness depends on the density of the thread, and the fibers used. This can also be expressed as metric 50. is not only a policeman but also a thread wound on a solid core (plastic or paper) into a shape like a cylinder. Often, the "right" thread size is a compromise that balances these competing needs. :) ]. Tex 9 to Tex 19 (thin, embroidery, special), Medium Tex Threads . Tex and Denier would fall under the Direct system (weight of a fixed length), and Cotton Count the Indirect System (length of a fixed weight). We have met this type of notation before, but it was 120D/2. Finally, we visually compare the swatch to the spool and make corrections if needed. While we are talking about sewing thread sizes I need to mention the quite obvious fact that. If you add 5% for twist contraction, the total Denier is 693. Copyright 2022 Ageberry: helping you succeed in sewing, In this sewing tutorial, I will talk about, Why is it important to know the sewing thread sizes and when we really need to pay attention to the thread size? I would be happy to post your spreadsheet here, thank you for sharing. Notice the only familiar notation is Tex. Let me explain. Is there some sort of adapter for the larger spools of thread that will work on a regular sewing machine, or is this thread to heavy for this kind of sewing machine? Well put that on our to-do list for the future! In this sewing tutorial, I will talk about sewing thread sizes and how to choose a correct thread size for your project. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a Tex 70 thread. Here are U.S. military specifications (MIL-DTL-32072 / VT-285F) for polyester thread. The V-69 thread is strong enough for your sling chair applications, we just normally recommend the V-92 because its thicker and tends to last longer, but depending on how much exposure to UV the thread gets, the V-69 should last you several years. bank line cordage There are many different methods of measuring thread size, and different countries and industries use different units of measure. However its in use, especially in Canada and Europe, and its not unusual to see threads marked in , Fine Tex Threads . This measurement is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of thread (9km). This shows the thread is a polyester thread of weight 60 made out of 3 individual strands twisted together. It should not be confused with these other polyester threads: We stock some of our polyester thread in case quantities at a 10 to 20% discount. During my last computer crash I apparently lost the information. And a thicker thread is usually weight 30 and lower, tex 30 and higher, denier 300 and higher. If it is taking up more room than that you either need a bigger needle for that thread size or to use a smaller thread. but I only want to mention one more because I did encounter it and I had no idea where to take it from: . We have Thread Cone Holders (right) that solve this problem by feeding thread into your machine. It shows how many kilometers of thread are needed to make 1kg. . The ticket number system is not unique, there are many systems of numbering the threads like this. cirrus of the thread, which is an obscure Japanese measurement system from which the weight derives. If so, will the bobbin tension still need adjusting? They are the threads denier divided by 10. or Den. More economical (price per length) than a small spool. The higher the weight, the finer the thread. Webbing is usually a loose enough weave that round point will go through just fine. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a Tex 70 thread. The alternative is seam puckering or the thread snapping. I work with textiles for a living, and have put together an Excel spreadsheet of various thread designations, including material, size, TEX, tensile strength, weight, and diameter. A good rule of thumb I use is cutting type points are used on leather. Tex is the weight (in grams) of 1,000 meters of thread. Sergers use almost exclusively cones because of the large amount of thread used. . The label 50S/3 denotes a thread of weight 50 made out of 3 individual strands of material (polyester in this case) spun together. International Organization for Standardization (IOS) as the measurement unit for thread density and as such is probably going to increase in popularity. Commercial sizes are standard for marine grade thread (youll see commercial sizes on the Sailrite website for our outdoor thread). If another weight is given for thread (like ounces), it refers to the amount of thread on the spool. vinyl or cardboard), polyester's 26% elongation factor usually does not matter because material's inelasticity does not stress the thread. Threads come generally in a limited number of packages, mostly depending on the amount of thread. A spool is generally under 3 (7.5cm) long, the one here is about 2x3/4 (5cmx2cm). Thread tends to get stronger as it gets heavier. Using V-138, the needle should be an NM140 size 22 needle but what about the needle tip for webbing? . Copyright 2022 Weaverville Thread, Inc | Ecommerce Shopping Cart Software by Miva, Inc. Middleweight thread that is used for tents, furniture upholstery, auto upholstery, dog beds and collars, sails, and sand bags. Not better or worse than what we have seen, just different. There were actually a few I left out, opting to only highlight the most popular ones since there are so many! None of this matters if the material sewn is not equally bleach and sunlight resistant. When we use a, This thread is labeled 120D/2. The novices among us might like a few hints on this.presumably the answer is different if youre sewing two panels of light sailcloth together vs sewing corner-patches on the sail, or stitching a leather bridle for a horse. Used normally for amounts of threads between 500 3000 yards, its easy to use, it goes easily on the sewing machine and unwounds easily. If weight is 40, it takes a length of 40km to make 1kg of thread. Yes, its still used to this day, as you can see, even if not for regular sewing thread, but mostly for embroidery thread. The thread size measures the threads thickness. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Were a bunch of DIY-ers who are passionate about all things DIY. )numbers can have the same thickness (see the example above with the Eloflex thread). If Denier is nine times Tex then surely 1380 Denier divided by nine is Tex 150 as the label suggests. Note: When banners are stretched to prevent sagging, it puts stress on seams. Who knows, the spools I have dont have the size marks. Suffice to say, this is used mostly for industrial threads, good to know it exists, glad I can ignore it! Try to use a needle where the eye is 40% larger than the thickness of the thread. (or Tex.or Den. Your math is correct and I understand your confusion. See our conversion calculator if you would like to experiment with other measurements. There are a number of comprehensive articles on Wikipedia (Thread (yarn), Units of Textile Measurement) which you may want to consult for more obscure units. There were in fact special shops and special tools for doing this (this darning mushroom image is from Wikipedia Darning article). The following table is imported directly from the Wikipedia article I cited above. This gives an easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread, which is very close to the Tex size of filament threads. If you know of any other way to get average thread diameter to a thread reference number (wt, Tex, etc) Id appreciate knowing it. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads. We never stop learning, or sharing what weve learned! I would recommend a size #21 or #22 needle and V-138 thread. Use our Thread Information pages or just call us for help buying the right thread. Please call us at 800-915-2320 when you need a precise color match. Commercial sizes are set sizes of 30, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 and 554. For what its worth, to get a .023 diameter, you would need a #277 / 4-cord / TEX 270 nylon or polyester thread, Id recommend polyester for UV resistance and less stretch. Here are 19 sewing applications that typically use polyester thread and the range of thread sizes that can be used with each. is the length (in kilometers) of a length of thread that weighs 1 kilogram. Getting the proper thickness affects the strength, diameter, sewing machine used, and visibility. how do you calculate % of the needle eye? There are complicated formulas that can derive the denier, tex, or weight from this, an excellent explanation is in this article. The weight of each thread would vary depending on the thickness. I hope that helps! Used generally for lengths of thread less than 5000 yards. Doug, Both these threads look the same in diameter/thickness to my naked eye. I couldnt find a reference to the origin of the name tex, as opposed to denier (which seems to originate in the name of an old French coin). Pattern Play: A Glossary of Fabric Pattern Names, How to Replace Boat Carpet with Woven Flooring, How to Make Scrap Fabric Christmas Tree Art, All About Cushion Foam Part 3: Anatomy of an Outdoor Cushion, Angela Rovetto: Finding Happiness in Hobbies, A Closer Look at Our 2016 Project Powerboat, http://www.sailrite.com/Sunbrella-Sling-5928-0017-Augustine-Espresso-54, http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf, http://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Threads/Thread-Size/V~138/Thread-Use/Outdoor/type/Products?order=custitem_popularity, http://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Sewing-Needles/Sewing-Machine-Needles/Needle-Size/22/type/Products?order=custitem_popularity. The tapered top prevents accidental unwinding which is a problem with a cop. Cotton Count (NeC) - Weight in pounds of 840 yards. It may mean other things than you thought. If its a silk thread its probably good for lightweight fabric (and I can say I used it numerous times for my silk projects) is it thinner than polyester thread? Heres a link to our V-138 thread: http://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Threads/Thread-Size/V~138/Thread-Use/Outdoor/type/Products?order=custitem_popularity. Getting the proper thickness affects the strength, diameter, sewing machine used, and visibility. Tex 20 to Tex 69 (regular), Heavy Tex Threads . Note: First responder clothing and gear should use Kevlar or Fire Retardant Thread. The label tex 30 introduces another measurement type tex. But the question is how do we determine what thread is thinner and what thread is thicker? Threads used for industrial sewing machines (industrial sewing thread) are generally categorized differently than for home sewing and below is an example from the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines Ltd. Notice the only familiar notation is Tex. It shows how many kilometers of thread are needed to make 1kg. Heres a helpful chart that shows how the different sizing methods compare: See what others are creating and get inspired! There are complicated formulas that can derive the denier, tex, or weight from this, an excellent explanation is. Our customers manufacture thermoplastic and rubber hoses, FIBC and multiwall bags, slings, tie-downs, tarps and wire and cable products using thread or yarn for reinforcement or sewing applications. which you may want to consult for more obscure units. I use thread to represent guy wires made of steel. The weight followed by the number of strands is in fact the Gunze count of the thread, which is an obscure Japanese measurement system from which the weight derives. hooks eye hook eyes Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. This is in reality not something the home user should be concerned about, the ticket number for a thread is only an internal reference number the manufacturer uses to identify the thread. But how do you decide how much bobbin tension to start with??? When we use a thicker thread for sewing we need to decrease the tension a bit, and when we use a thinner thread for the lightweight fabric we need to increase the tension for the stitches to look nice. Seam Rippers, Needle Threaders and Basic Tools, Robison-Anton Polyester Embroidery Thread. Downloadher chart here!Thanks for sharing this with all of us, Sue. Heavier threads are used when having stitches become a focal point is needed. But given that foot, inch, mile and so on have been replaced by the same organization since 1875 with the meter and we still use them 150 years later, I wouldnt put too much trust in the fact that Tex will become generally accepted any time soon. Both of these are Tex 70 and Ticket number (Tkt.) / 3-Ply Cones - 3280 Yds. How much does thread material weigh (1gm per x cubic centimeters or pounds per cubic inch)? For something labeled in tex, it would be somewhere around tex 25, and for threads marked in denier, it would be 225. Bookbinders typically use sizes 69 to 138. If you are sewing material that does not stretch (e.g. And a thread is always used (well, almost always) in combination with a needle, so at some point, we have to deal with the thread size together with the recommended needle size. There are many different ways to measure thread, as Sue mentioned above there is a letter system in addition to denier, tex and commercial sizes. Lower the number, heavier the thread. You might recognize the term from descriptions of nylon fabrics, which are often classified by the denier of the threads from which they are woven. Den 75/2. Poor overlooked, C and D. The letter system is used primarily for US Government Contracted work. Used normally for amounts of threads between 500 3000 yards, its easy to use, it goes easily on the sewing machine and unwounds easily. We based our chart off of what our manufacturers say and A&E threads claim that their V-138 is T-135 as seen in this document (under Anefil Polyester): http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf Youll see that their next size of this particular thread is a T-210, so there may be an element of rounding down to get to the T-135. Whats the Difference Between Phifertex Plus and Sunbrella Sling? And all the threads in that image appear to the naked eye to be about the same size, nevertheless, they could not be more different! Commercial sizes are set sizes of 30, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 and 554. V-69 is the heaviest commercial size recommended for home sewing machines. Nikki, is there any way of sending you my spreadsheet to have you post it here? (LogOut/ A cone will probably not fit on an internal sewing machine support but will fit on the external stand some sewing machines have. Serger threads are generally thinner than the regular sewing thread because serger stitches take a lot of thread to form the stitch so if you have cones marked as serger threads you should know that they are thinner threads. . : holds a small amount of thread, around 250 yards or less usually. Please note: Lightweight and Middleweight - Sizes 15 to 138. Threads used for industrial sewing machines (industrial sewing thread) are generally categorized differently than for home sewing and below is an example from the. I have the Sunbrella fabric, but since I have not sewn for a while, had put the task off. Lower the number, heavier the thread. If there was only one strand, the notation would have been 240D/1. The sizes I look for are about 2 diameter prototype or about 0.023 in HO (1:87.09) scale. There are many different methods of measuring thread size, and different countries and industries use different units of measure. abbreviation) is followed by a forward slash and a number. Weight (Wt): Weight is measured by a fixed weight system. Just a few: Metric ticket number (Nm), Cotton Count ( NeC, NeB, or Ne), Hong Kong Ticket (sometimes named far East), decitex, and others. When a spool falls within these ranges we do not charge for overages or refund underages. So if you have a collection of threads that dont indicate what sizes they are, just use your eyes: take the thread in your hand, maybe try to break it, place it on a piece of fabric and see how it looks, compare different threads and compare the one without markings for the size to others that have the size marked. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. And with the naked eye, I dont see a huge difference in thread diameter from the one above! Below is common industrial sewing thread sizes listed by, Tex size, Ticket number, government size and the constructions by Denier. can be expressed also as T only followed by a number; this label means the same as tex 52. Have you ever wondered what the letters in thread sizes stood for? Thread tends to get stronger as it gets heavier. The T sizes represent the Tex measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. Here is a table that shows our nominal sizes and the weight ranges for each side including the weight of the spool itself. Recently while looking for the appropriate glue, I found it through a company that also sold the same fabric I had ordered 3 years ago. If 9,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a 70-denier thread. If your machine wont handle the V-92 thread, try sizing down to the V-69. This means that you might slightly more or slightly less thread on any spool and use the term "nominal" weight in our descriptions. Up or down? or Den. A printable version of this article is available in my Etsy shop. Thread size numbering can be explainedutilizing several numbering systems,all of whichare classifiedas either Direct or Indirect Count Systems. . I am confused at the Charts indicating V138 as Tex 135, I use V138 and the reels have Tex 150 on them. Ironically, the thread weight number which is derived from km/kg is used in North America while all US dimensions are still in inches/feet/yards! There were in fact special shops and special tools for doing this (this darning mushroom image is from, article). This thread is labeled 120D/2. Lead time is 4 to 6 weeks. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Not so long ago, before fine lycra fibers were available, silk stockings were darned as a rule. If its an all purpose thread its most likely wt. In the images above I have 2 very different threads, one is all purpose thread polyester weight 40, and the other is an Eloflex thread (a stretchable thread that can be used on a regular sewing machine for sewing stretchy knits) weight 27. We can help by sending a reasonable number of samples, or by having you send the fabric or leather and matching it here. Denier - Weight in grams of 9,000 m of thread. Regular polyester thread has two or more plies that are twisted together and bonded. In other words, just make sure that the thread only takes up less than half of the space in the needles eye. This means 2 strands twisted together, each strand 120 denier for a total of 240 denier for the thread. . Tex is the most consistent of the measuring methods. Ecommerce Shopping Cart Software by Miva, Inc. 291-A Merrimon Avenue Weaverville, NC 28787. Related post: Sewing thread types and uses. In this case, we choose the thread by application and fiber. Will the thicker thread, stuck beneath the same spring in the bobbin, automatically end up with more tension than a thin one would? In the images above I have 2 very different threads, one is all purpose thread polyester, Sometimes, not always, the thread weight (. Thread Cone Holder - Use economical king spools on any machine. But they always say how many meters/yards are there. If so, save this pin (see below) on your sewing board so you can come to this tutorial later when you need the information on sewing thread sizes and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration! If another weight is given for thread (like ounces), it refers to the amount of thread on the spool. The most common units used for classifying thread sizes are Weight (wt), Denier (den) and Tex. Just for your information, there are many other measurement units for the sewing thread sizes ( in addition to weight, tex, and den.)